Monday, June 14, 2010

Sikati Cave

Last day climbing in Kalymnos! What to do to make it memorable? Sikati Cave!

What to say? Epic crag. Huge hole in the ground, 100m deep at the lowest point, covered in stalactites. My first trip here in 2008 I did the runout classic Lolita 7a. This time I had to step it up and onsighted the long Mort Aux Chevres 7b and also Morgan and its extension Adam, given 8a in the guidebook(!)

The first pitch (given 7c) is mostly very steep 6c-7a climbing to an admittedly hard section. It probably is 7c. Then the extension is only another 8m of climbing and you can start it fresh because there's a great bridging rest at the first anchor. I won't spoil it for you, but it's definitely worth having a try for the extension. I was happy I did.
 

Me on Morgan, still a ways to go. T-shirt carried as sweat towel.
© Mark Kochanek 2010


I was so zorched after that effort I bit the dust.

And then it was time to say farewell to Kalymnos and hello to Turkey. Thanks Kaly, see you next year!

Thursday, June 10, 2010

It's a Homonym, 5.12 (new route on the P-Wall)

Just the other day I was able to open up a new mixed route at the P-Wall at Mt. Evans.
It has two bolts and climbs out a steep part of the wall on big holds until the crack eats up cams and nuts.
Take a minute to look at the photos that Dan Gambino took on the actual first free ascent.
http://www.dangpix.com/p_wall_6_10/index.html

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon. Rob Pizem
And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net http://www.arcteryx.com http://camp-usa.com http://sterlingrope.com http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com http://www.wunderground.com http://climbing.com http://rockandice.com http://deadpointmag.com http://urbanclimbermag.com http://andrewburr.com http://ladzinski.com